Caldes de Malavella: Spain’s Hidden Thermal Paradise with Roman Roots
In the heart of Catalonia lies a town where time seems to stand still. Caldes de Malavella, an ancient thermal spa town just 30 minutes from Girona, harbors centuries of history bubbling beneath its surface—literally. This undiscovered gem offers experiences that rival the Mediterranean’s most celebrated destinations while remaining refreshingly authentic.
A 2,000-year thermal legacy
The Romans weren’t fools when they established “Aquae Calidae” here in the 1st century BC. The naturally carbonated thermal waters, which emerge at a constant 60°C (140°F), have drawn wellness seekers for millennia.
“Our thermal waters contain a perfect mineral composition that can’t be replicated. What nature created here is truly medicinal,” explains María Puig, a third-generation spa director at Balneari Prats, one of the town’s historic spa establishments.
Unlike the overcrowded thermal towns of central Europe, Caldes offers an intimate experience where you might find yourself soaking alongside locals rather than tourists—similar to those timeless Corsican villages that have preserved their authentic character.
Roman ruins hiding in plain sight
Wander through town to discover remarkably preserved Roman thermal baths. The Puig de les Ànimes site reveals ancient pools where Roman citizens once socialized and sought healing. What makes these ruins special is their accessibility—you can touch history without the barriers typically found at more famous archaeological sites.
Belle Époque elegance meets Catalan tradition
The town’s architecture tells stories of its golden age when wealthy Barcelona families built stunning summer villas. Casa Rosa and the modernist Vichy Catalan building showcase incredible turn-of-the-century design that rivals more celebrated architectural destinations.
Like those hidden Umbrian villages that offer alternatives to Tuscany, Caldes provides architectural splendor without the crowds or inflated prices.
The fountain route: free thermal waters
Locals fill bottles at the town’s three public thermal fountains—Els Bullidors, La Mina, and Font de Sant Narcís. Join them in this daily ritual and taste the slightly effervescent mineral water straight from the earth.
“Each fountain has slightly different properties. My grandmother always said Sant Narcís water is best for digestion, while La Mina helps with skin problems,” shares Josep Colomer, a lifetime resident.
Forest bathing in ancient woods
Beyond thermal waters, Caldes offers another kind of immersion. The surrounding forests provide perfect terrain for “forest bathing”—the Japanese practice of mindfully experiencing woodland environments. The Sèlvans Association leads guided walks through these therapeutic landscapes, creating experiences as restorative as visiting undiscovered paradise islands.
Explore the chapels route
A network of ancient paths connects five medieval chapels around Caldes. These half-day walks offer spectacular countryside views and quiet moments in centuries-old sacred spaces. The route to Sant Maurici chapel delivers particularly magical sunset views over distant mountains.
Beyond Caldes: day trips to remember
Use Caldes as your base to explore the broader region. The medieval city of Girona is just 20 minutes away, while the Costa Brava’s hidden coves can be reached in 30 minutes—offering experiences similar to those secret Greek islands without crowds.
Natural spectacles worth the journey
For the adventurous, the nearby volcanic region of La Garrotxa offers landscapes as dramatic as Costa Rica’s hidden waterfalls. Ancient lava flows have created a unique ecosystem where over 40 volcanic cones rise from lush forest.
Caldes de Malavella isn’t just another pretty Spanish town—it’s a portal to ancient healing traditions, architectural splendor, and natural wonders that have somehow remained off most travelers’ radar. In a world of overtourism, this thermal gem offers something increasingly precious: an authentic experience of Catalonia’s soul.