Nestled 35 miles from Barcelona’s bustling streets lies a hidden treasure most tourists never discover. Bigues i Riells, with its population of just under 10,000, offers an authentic slice of Catalonian life that feels worlds away from Spain’s crowded coastal resorts. I spent three days exploring this rural gem and discovered why locals call it “Barcelona’s secret countryside.”
The medieval marvel hiding in plain sight
Few visitors to Spain realize that one of Catalonia’s most impressive medieval structures stands guard over this sleepy town. Castell De Montbui, perched dramatically on a hillside, dates back to the 10th century and offers panoramic views that stretch all the way to Montserrat on clear days.
“Our castle has witnessed a thousand years of Catalonian history,” explains Maria Esteve, a local historian. “Yet even many Catalans from Barcelona have never visited it, which keeps it special for those who make the journey.”
A spiritual journey through time
Santa Maria de Puiggracios isn’t just a religious site—it’s a window into Catalonia’s soul. This hillside sanctuary, accessible via a picturesque hiking trail, rewards visitors with tranquility rarely found so close to Barcelona.
The simple stone Esglesia Sant Pere in town provides another glimpse into the region’s religious heritage, with architectural elements dating back centuries. Like many visitors seeking authentic experiences similar to those hidden Corsican villages frozen in time, I found myself alone in these spaces, able to absorb their atmosphere without crowds.
Where olive oil becomes an experience
At Masia Can Viver, a 16th-century farmhouse turned B&B, I discovered Spain’s agricultural traditions firsthand. This working olive farm offers guests the rare opportunity to participate in olive harvesting (November-January) and witness centuries-old oil production methods.
“What makes our oil special isn’t just the trees or the soil,” shares owner Josep Viver. “It’s the knowledge passed through generations. We’re preserving something precious that industrial production cannot replicate.”
Beyond Barcelona’s tourist menus
Forget paella tourist traps. In Bigues i Riells, Catalan cuisine shines authentically at family-run establishments where recipes haven’t changed in decades. At Cal Trempat, I savored botifarra amb mongetes (Catalan sausage with white beans) prepared by the same family for three generations.
Food enthusiasts searching for authentic regional flavors will find Bigues i Riells offers experiences comparable to hidden Portuguese towns where culinary traditions remain untouched by tourism.
Nature’s playground
The surrounding landscapes offer hiking trails through Mediterranean forests and dramatic rock formations of Cingles de Bertí. Unlike Jordan’s hidden wildlife reserves, you won’t find exotic animals, but the native flora and birdsong provide their own magic.
The best time to visit
While Barcelona swelters in summer heat and crowds, Bigues i Riells maintains a pleasant microclimate thanks to its elevation. Spring (April-June) brings wildflowers, while fall (September-November) offers harvest festivals and perfect hiking weather.
Avoid August when many family-run businesses close for vacation, similar to what happens in those secret Greek islands without crowds.
Where to stay
Beyond Masia Can Viver, accommodations remain delightfully low-key. Casa Rural El Folló offers rustic rooms in a restored farmhouse, while several apartments in town provide authentic living experiences where neighbors still greet visitors as welcomed guests rather than tourists.
Those seeking immersive cultural experiences will find Bigues i Riells offers that increasingly rare commodity in travel: authenticity. Like Vietnam’s jaw-dropping hidden caves, this Catalonian treasure reveals itself only to those willing to venture beyond the obvious.