The stone bridge of Besalú stretches before me like a time portal to medieval Spain. As I cross its ancient arches over the Fluvià River, I can almost hear the footsteps of merchants who walked this same path centuries ago. Besalú isn’t just another stop on the Catalonian tourist trail—it’s one of Spain’s most perfectly preserved medieval towns, a living museum that transports visitors to another era entirely.
A bridge that defies time
Built in the 12th century, Besalú’s iconic fortified bridge serves as both the town’s most recognizable landmark and its historical gateway. With its angular design and defensive towers, it’s far more than just a crossing point.
“The bridge was never just for passage—it was a statement of power and prosperity,” explains Martí Guixeras, a local historian. “When you cross it today, you’re walking the same stones as kings, pilgrims, and traders from nearly a thousand years ago.”
The unexpected Jewish heritage
Perhaps Besalú’s most remarkable treasure lies hidden beneath its streets. The town houses one of Europe’s rarest Jewish mikvehs—a ritual bath dating to the 12th century. This exceptional archaeological find reveals the deep Jewish heritage of the region.
The Jewish presence in Catalonia’s medieval towns is equally prominent in nearby Girona, whose El Call (Jewish Quarter) ranks among Europe’s best-preserved.
Gothic wonders and holy spaces
The town’s religious buildings tell stories of faith and artistic achievement. The monastery of Sant Pere showcases remarkable Romanesque architecture with its octagonal bell tower and triple-apse structure.
Inside Sant Vicenç church, don’t miss the spectacular rose window that bathes the interior in colored light during morning hours—a photographer’s dream and a spiritual experience in equal measure.
A feast for food lovers
Besalú’s culinary scene combines traditional Catalan cooking with modern innovations. At restaurant CalTronc, chef Marta Puig creates dishes that honor local ingredients.
“Our cuisine reflects our landscape,” Puig tells me as she serves a steaming plate of trinxat amb rosta (cabbage and potato pancake with pork). “The vegetables from La Garrotxa, the cheeses from our hills—this is the true taste of Besalú.”
Gateway to volcanic wonders
Beyond the medieval walls, Besalú serves as the perfect launching point to explore La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone, a landscape of dormant volcanoes and lush forests that seem worlds away from the stone streets of the old town.
The natural beauty surrounding Besalú rivals that of Costa Rica’s hidden waterfalls, though with a distinctly Mediterranean character.
Girona: The larger medieval sister
Just 30 minutes away, Girona offers a complementary medieval experience on a grander scale. Its imposing cathedral, with the widest Gothic nave in Europe, towers over colorful houses lining the Onyar River.
Game of Thrones fans might recognize Girona’s steep stone staircases as the filming location for scenes set in Braavos—though the real history here predates fantasy by many centuries.
Practical considerations
“Come early and stay late,” advises Anna Torrent, owner of a small guesthouse in Besalú. “The real magic happens when the day-trippers from Barcelona leave and the evening light turns the stone golden.”
For those traveling by public transport, Girona is easily accessible by high-speed train, while reaching Besalú requires a local bus connection or rental car. Consider basing yourself in Girona for better accommodation options while making a day trip to Besalú.
A timeless escape
As I sip my coffee in Besalú’s Plaza Major, watching locals gather for evening conversation against a backdrop of medieval facades, I’m struck by how this town has preserved not just its architecture but a way of life. Like Vietnam’s hidden caves, Besalú offers a glimpse into another world—one where history isn’t confined to museums but lives on in every cobblestone, archway, and ancient wall.